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Sapitos (like raised doughnuts with cream filling) are not to my taste, but seem to be popular with the bakery's largely Hispanic clientele. Pan de bono is similar, without the cheese.

In the display case you'll also find pan de queso, a slightly sweet bread, with a hint of cheese - delicious toasted and buttered. The Colombian churro is bagel-shaped and cakelike, filled with caramel. And if you buy a churro, it won't be a Spanish churro, which is like a corrugated strip of fried dough, designed for dipping in hot chocolate. La Sorpresa also makes crisp, delicious orejas dusted with granulated sugar, first cousins of the crisp round pastries called elephant or pig's ears. It is a Colombian mainstay and makes a tasty breakfast alternative to bagels or danish, eaten alone or with butter and jam. An arepa, a corn griddle cake, has the consistency of corn bread, but is as thin and as round as a pancake. I go to La Sorpresa ('the surprise' in Spanish) mainly for their arepas, hot and golden, with a slight crusty brown edging. It is possible to order coffee and take your sweet roll through the adjoining door to a stool at the bar of the restaurant, which is quiet at that time of day. daily, is midmorning, when the breads, sweet rolls and other baked goods come piping hot from the kitchen.

The best time to visit La Sorpresa, which is open from 6:30 a.m.

Once you find the right street, you can't miss the free-standing brick building, set back from the road, with Colombian and United States flags above the door and, on the roof, a delightful folk sculpture of a crowded bus piled high with passengers and luggage. This tiny bakery is next to and part of a Colombian restaurant of the same name. It's been five years since La Sorpresa Bakery opened on a street off the Post Road in Norwalk (near the Darien line).

La sorpresa bakery